fact: there are certain activities requiring physical prowess or skill that i shy away from because i don't want to be a bad at it {a beginner}. snowboarding is one. bowling another. but today i went surfing for the first time ever and i gave myself full permission to suck. and i did, but somehow it wasn't a problem and still heaps of fun.
the first wave i caught on my own i was sure i hadn't made it, so in the first wash of disappointment, i missed the fact that i was gliding along calmly with the wave carrying me in. by the end, i even nearly stood up a few times. that last step forward of my right foot always somehow an insurmountable feat, my long legs and high center of gravity going against me here. maybe next time. but for today, it was enough to just catch the waves i did, in whatever state i could, laugh giddily {in that big, releasing sort of way} whenever the water surprised me and earn my stripes: a pair of sore arms and matching bruises on my hipbones.
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